July 2003 - Catalina 27 - Teak Backing Blocks for Stanchions

Cast in place using DynaGlass to create a flat mountng surface

(see the page from March 2003 for info on the casting method)


Above: The finished installation
Above: another view of the finished installation. Note the thin layer of DynaGlass above and to the side of the teak.
Above: The teak blocks were approximately 3" x 2". The holes for the 1/4" machine screws are counter sunk.
I made six square teak backers. For the bow pulpit, I made round teak backers without counter sinks. I haven't done the stern pulpit yet.
Above: cutting the lip off the liner. I used a RotoZip with a ceramic cutting wheel to make the cuts. I made epoxy fillets for the bolt holes in the deck and liner. I used DynaGlass to cast a flush mounting surface between the underside of the deck & liner. The casting method is described in the page from a year ago, when I installed metal backers (which functioned just fine but looked ugly)
Another view of the underside of the cut liner. The gray area is the thick edge of the liner, which provides some structural strength. I left about 3/8" thick of this extending downward past the underside of the deck. That left the surface of the deck 3/8" higher than the surface of the liner. The 3/8" was filled in with Dynaglass, creating a perfectly flat surface for the backing block. To create the flat surface, I used the same casting method I employed when I initially installed metal backing plates.


Return to Judy B's Catalina Home Page

Return to Blumhorst.com